The Beach Below

The beach just below Sperlonga, on the left as you face the sea, is called the Spiaggia di Levante.

That's it.

That’s where we were headed next.

A meandering path led us out of the labyrinth of shaded alleys and into the sunshine.

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We passed this little area. Notice the green door?

A sun-dappled spot on the way down. Notice the green door?

Out here in the sun, the flowers

Out here in the sun, the flowers were abundant.

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I can only imagine how beautiful Anngelica's garden was.

I can only imagine how beautiful Anngelica’s garden was.

The beach was as lovely at eye level as it had been from above. Its designation as a Bandiera Blu beach was truly merited. Since 1998, the beaches of Sperlonga have been awarded the European Blue Flag, signifying unspoiled sand and pristine clean water, along with naturally preserved marine flora and fauna.

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From the beach we had a clear view of the Truglia Tower that sits at the base of Sperlonga. Once serving to protect Sperlonga against attack by sea, it is one of the many lookout towers that dot the entire Tyrrhenian coast.

The Truglia Tower.

The Truglia Tower.

First built in 1532 (with a couple of redo’s after destruction by invaders), the Truglia Tower rests on the remains of a much older Roman lookout tower. Today, it is a marvelous piece of architecture.

But our route was taking us in the opposite direction — we were aiming for a point in the distance: Tiberius’ grotto.

Look closely and you can spot the grotto at the far end of the beach.

We had a ways to go before we reached the grotto. But what a lovely walk!

I could barely discern the grotto at the far end of the beach where it started to make a curve, a darkened shadow against the rocky promontory that jutted out into the sea. Between the grotto and us was a long stretch of velvety, golden sand.

Not many people were out, but I imagine these chairs are stuffed during summer.

No doubt you have to fight for one of these chairs during summer.

Further down, we passed a boat resting on the sand. Lido Rocco — Rocco Beach — was painted on its side. I’m not sure why since we were still on Levante Beach. Regardless, I liked it for the fact that one of our two dachshunds is named Rocco. (Sperlonga’s mayor is also a Rocco. Maybe it was his boat.)

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As we moseyed our way along the sand, a water bomber entertained us off shore, making practice runs. Zooming down to the water’s surface, it skimmed along, scooping up a tankful, then took off again.

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Partway into the air, the plane released its load back into the sea, then returned for another round. We were fascinated.

Can you believe that sky?

Can you believe that sky?

The hillside alongside the beach was rich with greenery -- almost tropical.

Contrasting against the blue, the rich greenery at the edge of the sand seemed almost tropical.

U.S.A., Italia, Europa, and Francia.

We came upon an intriguing collection of flags:
U.S.A., Italia, Europe (from what I can tell), and Serbia/Montenegro

Before we knew it, we had reached the far side of the beach. Tiberius’ grotto was just ahead.

Look how far we've come. You can see the Truglia Tower way down there on the left.

Look how far we’ve come. You can see the Truglia Tower on the far left.  That’s Sperlonga on the hill.

But how to get in? A high, metal fence ran around the entire perimeter of the grotto and surrounding ruins, including the side facing the sea. A couple of people were poking around inside so we knew there had to be a way.

Off to the left, I noticed a small dirt road that led away from the beach. Surely that was the way.

Gino decided he wanted to stay on the beach and swim. I’ll choose ancient ruins over water any day, so I struck off down the little road. Tossing a glance back, I could see him sitting on the sand, already removing his shoes, most likely anticipating a refreshing dip in that delicious-looking water.

A few feet down the road, I came upon a small sign indicating this way to the museum. No doubt that’s where I’d also find the entrance to Tiberius’ grotto.

One Last Whirl Through Sperlonga

We’ll soon be leaving this enchanting little town. It’s been everything and more than I imagined.

But I can’t tear myself away quite yet. There are a few more things to see. Put on your walking shoes and ramble around with Gino and me for one last whirl around Sperlonga.

Watch your step!

Watch your step!

Did you notice the blue door?

Did you notice the blue door? 

This red is certainly different!

This red is certainly different!

Come up this way!

Come up this way!

There's Gino. I wonder what he's found.

There’s Gino. I wonder what he’s found.

Definitely Greekish.

Definitely Greekish.

More blue!

More blue!

I wonder who wears these? (I bet he's cute!)

I wonder who wears these? (I bet he’s cute!)

Kitty cat startled me!

Kitty cat startled me!

Someone is doing their ironing al fresco. How perfect!

This is the best way to dry your clothes.

Hmmm...I wonder what's up here...

Hmmm…I wonder what’s up here…

Or down here...Hey! That's Gino!

Or down here…Hey! That’s Gino!

He found this quaint little passageway -- so steep and slippery, at times, that you need to hand onto these ropes!

He found this quaint little passageway — so steep and slippery, at times, that you need to hang onto these ropes!

See?

See what I mean?

You can see why I am enamored of this town.

Pretty pretty pretty Sperlonga.

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So many creative details.

So many creative details.

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Another similarity to Greece. There were several blue doors.

There were several blue doors,
another similarity to Greece.

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This looks interesting! Let's check it out.

You know I’m going through here.

Way cool!

My reward!

Getting tired yet?

Are you getting tired yet?

Careful! These steps might be slippery.

Looks like someone is ready for the beach.
(Doesn’t he look guilty?!)

It's all worth it!

It’s all worth the effort, though.

Don't you agree?

Don’t you agree?

For now, we’re going to leave Sperlonga and descend to that luscious, golden sand just below. No, not to swim (at least, not me), but to head straight to that mysterious grotto that Tiberius built.

It’s there, on the far end of the beach.

And now, down to the beach. Andiamo!

And now, down to the beach.
Andiamo!

 

Sperlonga: The Mural With A Story

Sperlonga has had its troubles.

In the 9th century, the town suffered raids by the Saracens. During medieval times, the infamous pirate Barbarossa attacked the town. One hundred years later, the Turks took it over. (Later, celebrities and tourists overran the town, but that’s another story.)

I knew that somewhere hidden among the warren of tiny alleys was a miniature piazza – too tiny to even be a piazzetta – where one wall has a vividly painted mural depicting the worst day in Sperlonga’s history: August 8, 1534. This was the day that Barbarossa sacked Sperlonga, pillaging and destroying everything in his path.

We came upon a tiny courtyard and realized, this was it!

It's right through this little covered part. You can just see a bit of the mural on the left, further inside.

It’s right through this little pathway.
You can see parts of it on the left side.

Right in here.

See how small?

The mural was tucked inside a space so narrow I was unsuccessful in getting a panoramic photo of the entire thing.

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So I resigned myself to getting only segments of it.

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The scenes were quite descriptive.

The scenes were quite descriptive.

And included written explanations of that fateful day.

And included written explanations of that fateful day.

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This was my favorite part.

This was my favorite part.

I did climb up some steep stairs in an attempt to get a good angle from there.

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But to no avail.

However, I did get this great shot of Gino down there.

However, I did get this great shot of Gino down there.

Lunch At Gli Archi Ristorante

There weren’t a lot of places open since Sperlonga’s high tourist season had passed. For example, this looked like it would have been a nice place to eat.

Ristorante La Siesta this way.

Ristorante La Siesta this way.

It had a cute name and a lovely, characteristic atmosphere. But no one was there.

I guess they were all taking a siesta.

I guess they were all taking a siesta.

This sign implored us not to bring in gelato or any kind of beverage. We were still looking for one!

This store sign shows a talking gelato cone.
“I can’t go in,” it says.
The rest of it implores,”courteously,” not to bring in any kind of food or drink. If we had some, we wouldn’t.
But we were looking.

We considered sitting here, but there was no table.

We considered sitting here, but there was no table.

And this seat was already occupied.

And this seat was already occupied.

Eventually we stumbled upon a little place hidden down some steep steps.

The giveaway was the lone table sitting outside halfway down.

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This was Gli Archi Ristorante, a wonderful little family-run restaurant that serves only food in season.

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The back of the menu must have been translated by Google Translate. But you get the idea.

The outside was very plain.

The outside of the restaurant was very plain.

But the inside was not.

But the inside was not.

The dining room was beautiful, but we still wanted to sit outside on that lone table.

The dining room was beautiful,
but we still wanted to sit outside on that lone table.

The table seemed to be on a relatively flat spot so we claimed it.

Somebody's ready to eat!

Somebody’s ready to eat!

Patience, Gino!

Patience, Gino!

Wine and vinegar. And there goes Gino, getting into the act again.

Wine and vinegar.
And there goes Gino, getting into the act again.

Our waiter was a quirky, little old man. He didn’t speak a lot, or even smile a lot, but I thought he was very sweet.

The food was spectacular (which had nothing to do with me liking the waiter).

A fresh salad.

A fresh salad.

Prosciutto and melon. Yum!

Prosciutto and melon. Yum!

Pasta with calamari.

Handmade pasta with calamari.

Have a bite!

Have a bite! It’s yummy!

GIno's pasta.

Gino’s pasta.

It doesn't like Gino is sharing his.

It doesn’t look like he plans on sharing his.

But at least he'll give you a toast!

But at least he’ll give you a toast!

At the end of the meal, the waiter gave us our bill tucked into a large, beautiful card. The front of the card was a stunning watercolor of the outside of the restaurant.

This looks much better than my flat photo.

This looks much better than my flat photo.

You can find Gli Archi Ristorante for yourself on Via Ottaviano 17 in the centro storico.

Sperlonga: A Closer Look

The décor outside many of the houses was quite whimsical and creative.

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Clay pots and painted tiles were stuck to walls, spilling over with green plants and flowers.

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Isn't this great?

This is so pretty!

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Shells, cactus plants, and other items were clustered near the doorsteps or glued into the walls.

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Isn't this one fun?

Isn’t this one fun? (I told you in the last post there was definitely a Mediterranean beach theme going on.)

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Aren’t these two pots below great?

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And then there were random things. Like these:

A large clock on one of the walls.

A large clock on one of the walls.

A colorful tiled sign advertising fruit and vegetables.

A colorful tiled sign advertising fruit and vegetables.

This wonderful Madonna shrine.

This wonderful Madonna shrine.

A cute painting inside a niche.

A cute painting inside a niche.

A very personalized mail box.

A very personalized mail box.

I couldn't resist this crusty door handle.

This crusty door handle.

These gorgeously tiled steps.

These gorgeously tiled steps.

Whew! After all that, how about some lunch?